Trailer Welding, Frame, Coupler and Jack Repair

Trailer welding covers the cracked and broken metal that keeps a trailer together: hinge welds, brackets, crossmembers, spring hangers, tongues and safety chain mounts, plus the coupler and the jack at the front. Typical prices from published shop lists: tack weld about $145, bracket or reinforcement weld $217 to $435, minor frame straightening about $435, coupler replacement $100 to $145 plus the coupler, jack replacement $150 to $290 plus the jack. Small welds can often be done where the trailer sits; structural work may need the shop.

Common jobs and typical prices

Full ranges are on the pricing page.

Couplers and safety chains

The coupler is the one part of a bumper pull trailer that holds the whole load to the truck. Featherlite’s service chart says to check the coupler and ball for cracks, pits and flats, use a ball rated for the trailer’s weight, grease it, and replace the locking device when worn. 4-Star’s manual says to inspect the hitch for wear, corrosion and cracks before coupling.

Florida’s s. 316.530(2) requires safety chains, cables or other safety devices on any trailer towed by a rear hitch, strong enough to keep the trailer connected under all conditions. A chain mount with a cracked weld does not meet that, and it is a quick repair. If your coupler will not latch or pops off the ball, see coupler won’t latch or pops off the ball.

What cracks, and why

• Hinge and latch welds on horse trailer doors and partitions take kicks and slams. See horse trailer repair.
• Spring hangers on leaf spring axles crack from load and potholes. Dexter’s maintenance chart says to inspect hanger welds. See axle and suspension repair.
• Crossmembers under floors corrode where urine and water sit. See trailer floor replacement.
• Tongues and A-frames on utility and equipment trailers carry the tongue weight and every jolt from the hitch, and a crack there is always a shop job.

How we handle a weld job

1. Photo first. Send a picture of the crack and a wider shot so we can see what it is attached to.
2. We tell you where. A cracked divider latch or a chain mount can usually be done at the barn. A cracked tongue, a hanger or a frame member may need the trailer brought in.
3. Clean and inspect. We grind back to bright metal to see how far the crack runs before we quote the final number.
4. Weld and finish. Weld, grind, and paint or coat steel so the repair does not rust out.

When welding is not the answer

A frame that is rusted thin in many places, or an aluminum frame corroded through at several crossmembers, may not be worth welding. We will tell you so, and give you the numbers either way, so you can decide whether the trailer gets fixed or replaced.